Real advice from touring cyclists and local riders, collected from the Nomadic Bike touring community. Names are left out to protect everyone’s privacy.
Planning a bike trip in Tunisia? Ask your own question and help other riders in our forum.
Wind in the South: which direction should I ride?
Q — cyclist from Australia: I’ll ride between Tozeur, Douz and Tataouine in November. Is it better to go north-to-south or south-to-north?
- Rider from Italy (April): The wind blew east to west. Tozeur → Douz across Chott el Djerid was brutal, about 5 km/h. Go Tataouine → Tozeur instead.
- Touring cyclist (November): Strong tailwind going Tozeur → Douz. The wind seems to change with the season.
- Another cyclist (February): Strong wind from the west.
- Local guide, Metlaoui: February and March are unpredictable, but the South is generally good.
✓ Bottom line: wind depends on the season — check the forecast a few days ahead before choosing your direction.
Ksar Ghilane to Douz through the desert on a gravel bike
Q — cyclist from France: Can you ride Ksar Ghilane → Douz across the desert on loaded gravel bikes with 38 mm tyres?
- Cyclist House host, Douz: Yes — via the El Bibene area, without entering Jebil Park.
- It depends on the weather and takes some care and patience. We rode it on narrower tyres, Douz → Ksar Ghilane in under a day and a half.
- El Bibene means “the doors” in Arabic — it’s the place where you can pass through.
✓ Bottom line: possible on a gravel bike. Avoid very windy days.
Douz to Douiret: paved road or desert track?
Q — cyclist heading south-west: After the Cycling House in Douz, which route to Douiret? We’d like to stay on paved roads.
Local cyclist, South — the easy paved route:
- Ride to Guermessa, then take the paved road to Chenini (it doesn’t show on Google Maps).
- From Chenini, a nice paved road leads to Douiret.
- Alternative via Beni Khedache and Ghomrassen: about 20 km shorter, but several climbs.
Cyclist on a 3-week tour — the desert route:
- Camp at the hot springs about 20 km before Ksar Ghilane.
- 10–20 km south of Ksar Ghilane, take the road due east: beautiful, almost no traffic, real desert.
- A rideable gravel track continues east to tarmac a few km before Chenini — turn there for Douiret.
- Carry plenty of water: there’s nothing between Ksar Ghilane and Chenini, though every car we met stopped to share water.
✓ Bottom line: Guermessa → Chenini → Douiret for paved roads; the Ksar Ghilane desert route for adventure — with lots of water.
Arriving by plane: airports, bike boxes and the first ride
- Enfidha airport (solo cyclist): Not much around it. Stay in Sousse (taxi needed) or assemble your bike at the airport and ride. Trains from Enfidha and Sousse take bikes as far south as Tozeur.
- Tunis-Carthage airport (Nomadic Bike): Ride from the airport — taxis often overcharge for bikes. Head toward the Lake of Tunis for calmer roads. Google Maps works fine, and you can get a free SIM at the airport.
- Bike boxes: Nomad’s Hostel in Tunis can store them. Cheap boxes (about 3–5 USD) at Espace Vélo in Bardo. Near Enfidha, Dar Hkaiem hostel in Sousse helps cyclists.
✓ Bottom line: build your bike at the airport and ride; leave your box at a cyclist-friendly hostel.
Where to sleep: camping, hostels and cyclist houses
- Wild camping: Completely fine, especially in the east. If police show up, just cooperate — it’s for your safety. Private campsites with your own tent: usually under 10 USD.
- Tunis: Nomad’s Hostel.
- Sousse: Dar Hkaiem hostel; the Starbike shop welcomes touring cyclists.
- Mahdia: Local hosts offer beds to passing cyclists — ask in the forum.
- Douz: The Cyclist House, marked on the Mapy app.
- Near Ksar Ghilane: Camp at the hot springs about 20 km before town.
Best SIM card for the South
Past traveller: Ooredoo was the best. You can top up with your card in the app, and coverage was great.
Places and events worth knowing
- International Festival of the Sahara, Douz: Late December, one of the biggest festivals in North Africa. Check the official page for exact dates.
- Zammour Trekking festival, South Tunisia: A four-day outdoor festival in the small village of Zammour, with hiking, shared meals, music and dancing. Read So much amour in and for Zammour.
- Kasserine region: Visit the archaeological site of Sbeitla.
- Cap Bon: The main road is closed for construction, but by bike you can take the beautiful coastal road.
- Bike shops: Starbike in Sousse; Espace Vélo in Bardo.
- Read more: Cycling as a female in Tunisia.