Of all the rides we do with Nomadic Bike, cycling South Tunisia is the one that stays with me the longest. This is day three of our trip with my friends Tarek, Dhia, Ismail, Leila, Mouna and the rest of the group: a freezing night in our tents, the mountain oasis of Tamaghza, the Algerian border, Chebika, a long dry stretch to Tozeur and a night in a palm oasis. (Missed the day before? Read our ride from Metlaoui through the Thelja gorge to Tamaghza.)
Waking Up in Our “Five Stars Hotel”
We were so tired that we slept wherever we stopped. In the morning Tarek was still asleep, not far from Dhia’s tent. I asked him how he felt and he told me his back was hurting. Honestly, I’m not surprised: it was a really cold night. Everyone felt it. One of us couldn’t even find his shoes when he woke up.
But when we looked around, it was worth it. The place where we camped was so beautiful that it felt like another country. Tarek didn’t even recognize where he was, and still told me he “slept like a baby.” Ismail was the last one sleeping, and the others complained that someone didn’t stop snoring all night and was crowing like a rooster at 5 am. By 5:30 everyone was awake, so we packed up our tents and got back on the bikes.
The Mountain Oasis of Tamaghza
Before leaving Tamaghza, Leila made coffee for everyone, and Mouna declared she couldn’t talk until she had eaten something. The plan for the day was simple: ride toward Tozeur, stop by the big canyon of Tamaghza, rest in Chebika and keep going. Two of our riders wanted to start earlier, so they left before us with Mohamed as their “new tour guide” (we told him to take good care of them!). Riding past the palm trees with the oasis on our left side was one of the most beautiful moments of the trip. Life here is slow and simple, and one of my friends said something I keep thinking about: “People are enjoying their lives here. I really envy them.” After the noise of the capital, I understood him completely.
Arriving in Chebika
Climbing out of Tamaghza, we stopped at a viewpoint where you can see a white line in the landscape: the border between Tunisia and Algeria. On the other side is the Oued Souf region. The villages here are so close that many families are mixed Tunisian and Algerian, and people on both sides share weddings and family life. Then came the steepest uphill of the day, the big climb out of Tamaghza toward Chebika. It was tough, but we all made it to the top. The first riders of our group reached Chebika before me, and when I finally rolled in with my friend Tarek, we were so happy. Chebika is another small oasis at the foot of the mountains, and a perfect place for a break before the desert.
The Dry Stretch to Tozeur
After Chebika, the landscape changes completely. Suddenly there is nothing around you, just the Sahara. And we made a mistake: we didn’t have enough water. With 30 km left to Tozeur, we told each other “it will be fine, let’s finish those 30 km!” and kept pedaling. We made it, but my advice is simple: always carry more water than you think you need.
In Tozeur our friend Khazri was waiting for us, and it felt so good to see a familiar face after a long day in the desert.
A Night in a Palm Oasis
Our last mission of the day was to find a place to camp. In Tozeur the best spots are inside the oases, so we went looking for someone who owns one and would let us put up our tents between the palm trees. We ended up at Eden Palm. Sleeping in an oasis after a day in the desert is something I wish every cyclist could experience at least once.
More of the Tunisian Sahara: Douz and Ksar Ghilane
If you have more days, keep going. Across Chott el Djerid you reach Douz, the gate of the Sahara, where almost every cyclist traveling in Tunisia stays at the Cyclist House with our friend Fraj. Every year around February there’s a bike festival there, and in late December Douz hosts the International Festival of the Sahara. Further into the dunes, Ksar Ghilane has a hot spring that feels amazing after a day of riding in the sand.
Tea, Bread and Hospitality
Food is half of every Nomadic Bike ride, and the South is generous. Near Matmata there is Cafe Jelili, in the middle of nowhere, where a very kind woman serves warm tea, fresh matabka and sweets. In Metlaoui our friend Mohamed has hosted dozens of cyclists in his family home. This is what I want people to understand about Tunisia: you leave as a traveler and you come back with a new brother.
Tips for Cycling South Tunisia
- Bring a warm sleeping bag. Desert days can be hot, but the nights get really cold. We learned it the hard way.
- Carry lots of water. Between the oases there can be nothing for kilometers. On the road from Chebika to Tozeur we ran low; don’t make our mistake.
- Bring good lights. If you end up riding after sunset like we did to Tamaghza, you need to see and be seen.
- Check the wind before you choose your direction. Riders in our community have had brutal headwinds between Tozeur and Douz across Chott el Djerid in one season, and a strong tailwind in another.
- Ask to camp in an oasis. Palm oasis owners are often happy to let cyclists put up a tent. Wild camping is fine in the South too, and if you ask people where to sleep, they may invite you into their home.
- Ksar Ghilane ↔ Douz through the desert is possible on a gravel bike. Our friend at the Cyclist House recommends passing by El Bibene (“the doors” in Arabic), without entering Jebil Park.
- Take the train south. Trains from Enfidha and Sousse take bikes as far as Tozeur.
- Get an Ooredoo SIM card. Riders say it has the best coverage in the South.
- You will meet the National Guard. Keep your passport ready, be friendly and cooperate; it’s for your safety.
Plan Your Own Sahara Bike Trip with Nomadic Bike
If this story makes you want to ride the desert, we can help. We rent gravel bikes for the Sahara and South Tunisia, and our Cycling in Tunisia forum is full of riders sharing routes, places to sleep and contacts in the South. You can also read our Cycling Tunisia tips, Cycling as a female in Tunisia, or join our guided South Tunisia bike adventure.
💬 Planning a similar trip?
Travelers interested in cycling this route, or anywhere in Tunisia, can ask us for tips on WhatsApp: routes, where to sleep, water, food and bike rentals. English, French and Arabic.
